3000 PELLET STOVE
|Fuel type :||Pellet (Premium grade or better)|
|Heating area :||500 - 2,200 Ft2|
|Maximum output :||43,000 BTU/h (12.6 kW)|
Maximum recommended heating area by climate zone Consult our map
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If you love the look and feel of a wood stove, but are attracted to the convenience offered by pellets, then the OSBURN 3000 PELLET STOVE is for you.
The Osburn 3000 displays a classic wood stove appearance, and is aesthetically consistent with other members of the Osburn product family. However, within this classic wood stove design exists state-of-the-art components for achieving the unparalleled performance and convenience of a pellet stove.
Notable internal features include a bottom-feed fuel delivery system, sophisticated electronics for greater convenience and an air wash system for keeping the large glass viewing door clean. The new Osburn 3000, a must for eco-friendly heating!
Government incentives may apply to this product.
The last 2 owners who registered their guarantee are 100% satisfied with the product.
DIGITAL WALL THERMOSTAT
GLASS HEARTH PAD 10 mm - 44" X 36"
LEG ASSEMBLY FOR AC01463 DISCHARGE TANK
STAND ALONE AUXILIARY DISCHARGE TANK
STORAGE TANK EXTENSION FOR AC01460
STORAGE TANK WITH PNEUMATIC SELF-FEEDING PELLET SYSTEM
THERMOSTATIC CONTROL ON-OFF REMOTE
Adhesives, gaskets and insulation
ASH VACUUM CLEANER
MODULAR FLOOR PROTECTION SYSTEM
Osburn 3000 pellet stove installation manual (English and French versions)
(PDF - 8.1 Mo) Osburn 3000 pellet stove operation manual (English and French versions)
(PDF - 7.8 Mo) Osburn 3000 pellet stove dimensions
(PDF - 0.1 Mo) Troubleshooting guide
(PDF - 1.3 Mo) How to access fuses
(PDF - 1.1 Mo) Component location
(PDF - 0.2 Mo) How to replace the igniter
(PDF - 0.4 Mo) How to replace the rotative valve
(PDF - 1.0 Mo) How to replace the combustion blower
(PDF - 1.2 Mo) How to replace the F-160
(PDF - 1.8 Mo) How to replace the F-250
(PDF - 1.0 Mo) How to replace the exhaust blower
(PDF - 1.6 Mo) How to replace the convection blower
(PDF - 1.2 Mo) How to replace the auger motor
(PDF - 0.7 Mo)
Appliance performance (1)
|Fuel type :||Pellet (Premium grade or better) (2)|
|Recommended heating area (sq.ft.) : ()||500 - 2,200|
|Hopper capacity :||55 lb (25 kg)|
|Maximum burn time : ()||45 h|
|Maximum heat input rate : (3)||43,000 BTU/h (12.6 kW)|
|Overall heat output rate (min. to max.) : (4)||6,400 BTU/h (1.9 kW) to 29,300 BTU/h (8.6 kW)|
|Average overall efficiency : (5)||69.8% (HHV) (6)||75.3% (LHV) (7)|
|Optimum efficiency : (8) (9)||77.2%|
|Burn rate :||1.2 lb/h - 5.0 lb/h|
|Average particulate emissions rate : (10)||2.9 g/h|
|Average CO : (11)||41.2 g/h|
|Average electrical power consumption for ignition cycle : (12)||3.1A (372W)|
|Average electrical power consumption for continuous operation : (12)||2.3A (90W) - 3.1A (174W)|
(1) Values are as measured per CSA B415.1-10, except for the recommended heating area, hopper capacity, maximum burn time and maximum heat input rate. Results may vary depending on pellet quality, density, length, and diameter.
(2) Grades of pellet fuel are determined by organizations such as Pellet Fuels Institute (PFI), ENplus and CANplus.
() Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, heat loss factors, climate, fuel type, feed rate, fuel level, and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature considering that the space configuration and the presence of heat distribution systems have a significant impact in making heat circulation optimum.
(3) Based on the maximum burn-rate and a dry energy value of pellet at 8,600 BTU/lb.
(4) As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
(5) Efficiency based on radiated and delivered heat when allowing cycling from high to low burn to simulate thermostat demand.
(6) Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
(7) Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
(8) Performances based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard at 7 lb/ft³ and with a moisture content between 19% and 25%.
(9) Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
(10) This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
(11) Carbon monoxyde.
(12) Unless stated otherwise, measures were taken directly at the main power source and include all electrical components present in the appliance.
|High-efficiency EPA certified appliance||Yes|
|Flue outlet diameter||3"|
|Type of chimney||ULC/ORD-C441, CAN/ULC S609, UL 641 (TYPE L)|
|Baffle type||Stainless steel|
|Approved for an alcove installation||Yes|
|Approved for a mobile home installation||Yes, with fresh air intake|
|Shipping Weight||367 lb (167 kg)|
|Door type||Single, glass with cast iron frame|
|Glass type||Ceramic glass|
|Glass surface – dimensions (Width X Height)||13 3/8" X 7 3/4"|
|Glass air-wash system||Yes|
|Premium quality blower included (CFM)||176|
|Noise level at 6 feet||47 dBa (+/- 3 dBa) - 59 dBa (+/- 3 dBa)|
|Overall dimension (Height)||32 5/8"|
|Overall dimension (Width)||24 3/8"|
|Overall dimension (Depth)||30 5/8"|
|Adjustable threaded legs||No|
|Easy-to-access ash drawer||N.A.|
|Voltage and frequency||120 VAC - 60 Hz|
|AC Current||2.3A/120 VAC - 3.1A/120 VAC|
|Main control board fuses||7.5A - 250V|
|USA standard (emissions)||EPA|
|Canadian Standard (emissions)||CSA B415.1-10|
|USA standard (safety)||UL 1482, ASTM E1509|
|Canadian standard (safety)||ULC S627|
|Tested and listed as per applicable standards||By an accredited laboratory (CAN/USA)|
Minimum clearances to combustibles*
(Data expressed in inches. 1 inch = 25.4 mm)
|Clearance – back wall||3"||3"|
|Clearance – placed in a corner||3"||3"|
|Clearance – side wall||6"||6"|
|Clearance – top (measured from the platform on which the appliance is installed)**||48"||48"|
* The information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the information published in any other media (owner's manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or web sites).
** Some appliances have been tested with a low ceiling. Before setting up your unit, refer to the installation manual.
How do I determine the size of heater I need and where should I install it?
Before answering this question, it is very important that you clearly identify what your needs are. Some people will buy a heater simply to enhance the ambiance of a room, while others will buy a heater as their main source of heat. There is no good or bad reason for buying a wood-heat system. If you simply want to enhance the ambiance of a room, most small to medium size heaters will suit your needs. Simply chose the style you like best, and put the unit in the room where you spend the most time. The heat and look of a glowing fire will create an atmosphere of warmth and coziness.
If your primary need is to heat, you must verify the heating capacity of your heater based on the technical data provided by the manufacturer. For instance, if you want to heat an 800-square-foot area on one floor, you need to buy a heater with a minimum capacity of 800 sq. ft.
If you need to heat more than one floor, keep in mind that heat rises. Therefore, a heater located in your basement will help you heat the main floor as well. However, the contrary is not true; a heater located on the main floor (ground floor) will not heat the basement. Keep in mind also that the more divisions there are in the house, the harder it will be to distribute the heat evenly.
If you need to heat two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor. Then, add 50% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a wood-heating system in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,200 sq.ft. (800 + 400 = 1,200.
If you need to heat more than two floors, calculate the surface of the lower floor (where the wood-heating system is located). Then, add 50% of the surface of the middle floor, and 25% of the surface of the upper floor. For instance, if you install a heater in the basement and you have 800 sq.ft., you will need a heater with a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft. (800+400+200= 1,400). Consult the drawing below. It will help you understand the explanations provided in this section.
REMEMBER: We are talking about "zone" heating, not central heating. The room where the heater is located and the rooms directly above it will always reach higher temperatures than the rooms distant from the unit. If you want an even temperature throughout the house, you need to consider a central heating system, such as a warm air wood furnace. Furthermore, you must keep in mind that the size of the heater you need may vary based on the insulation of your house, its exposure to wind, and the number of windows. It will always be prudent to buy a heater with a capacity that is slightly higher than the minimum capacity that you need. For instance, if you need a minimum capacity of 1,400 sq.ft., it will be more prudent to buy a heater with a capacity of 1,600 sq.ft., if not 1,800 sq.ft. There are three main advantages in buying a larger appliance: the increased heating capacity, the ease of loading more and larger logs (as a result of the greater firebox volume), and the increased combustion time (given the higher loading capacity).
The drawing above gives an example of the minimum heating capacity required for a wood-heating system installed in a house with three floors of 800 sq.ft. each. We assume that the house is well insulated and that air can circulate between each floor through an open stairway and/or floor traps.
Why is the efficiency as per the EPA’s test data smaller than the publicized optimum efficiency?
EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance’s efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times.
Does my heater qualify under the LEED program?
The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building Rating System™ encourages and accelerates global adoption of sustainable green building and development practices through the creation and implementation of universally understood and accepted tools and performance criteria. LEED is a third-party certification program and an internationally accepted benchmark for the design, construction and operation of high performance green buildings. It provides building owners and operators the tools they need to have an immediate and measurable impact on their buildings’ performance.
The Canadian Green Building Council (CGBC) certifies LEED projects. The Certification is based on the total point score achieved, following an independent review and an audit of selected Credits. With four possible levels of certification (certified, silver, gold and platinum), LEED® is flexible enough to accommodate a wide range of green building strategies that best fit the constraints and goals of particular projects. The Canadian rating systems are an adaptation of the US Green Building Council's (USGBC) LEED Green Building Rating System, tailored specifically for Canadian climates, construction practices and regulations. The rating systems are adapted to the Canadian market through an inclusive process that engages stakeholders and experts representing the various sectors of the Canadian industry.
Wood or pellet stoves, fireplaces, and inserts can qualify under LEED and obtain up to one point provided that they meet the following criteria.
Can I burn corn in my pellet appliance?
Your appliance is not designed to burn corn. The combustion of corn requires mechanical and electronic adjustments. Without those adjustments, corn combustion may cause the appliance to overheat, malfunction, or wear out prematurely. Consult your owner’s manuals for the type of pelletized fuel that may be used with your appliance.
Do I need a floor protection under and around my pellet stove?
Yes. A floor protection is required for any pellet stove, unless the floor in front and on the side of the unit is already made of a non-combustible material (ex: concrete). You have many choices, such as stone, brick, cement board, or tile. You need to consult your owner's manual in order to know the dimensions of the floor protection specific to your model. In Canada, the floor protection must extend at least 18 inches (460 mm) in front of the door opening and at least 8 inches (205 mm) at the back and on each side of the appliance. In the USA, the floor protection must extend in front of the unit by at least 6 inches. It must also extend beyond each side of the door opening by at least 6 inches. The floor protector needs a minimum thickness of 0.015" (0.38 mm).
What type of exhaust system do I need for my pellet stove?
For all pellet stoves, the same type of venting is used from the appliance connector to the exterior of the house. It is commonly called a type L pellet vent. This type of flue is designed with a double wall. It is made of stainless steel inside and galvanized steel outside. Air between the two walls is what provides the insulation. In Canada, pellet vent is certified to ULC-S609-M89/ORD-C441. In the United States, it is certified to UL-641. Pellet stoves generally require a 3-inch or 4-inch diameter. A 4-inch diameter is normally recommended for installations with a high elevation. For high-output appliances, a 4-inch vent may be the only diameter allowed. Consult your owner’s manual in order to find out what vent diameter is recommended for your model.
Can I vent my pellet appliance through a masonry chimney?
You can vent your appliance through a masonry chimney. It is important that the masonry chimney be built in compliance with the specifications of the National Building Code or other applicable standard having jurisdiction. It must be lined with fire-clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement. The minimum venting requirement will be the installation of a stainless steel liner from the appliance to the extremity of the chimney. Given the elevation for this type of installation, a 4-inch diameter is normally required. Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to ensure that it is not obstructed thus blocking the draught. It should be cleaned when necessary.
Do I need to connect a fresh air intake for my pellet stove?
A fresh air intake is not mandatory for your pellet stove, unless the unit is installed in a mobile home or if the local building code or the manufacturer requires it. Pellet stoves use a mechanical draft. Combustion air is forced into the unit using combustion and/or exhaust motors. In the case of a very air-tight house, it may be difficult to replace the combustion air expelled outside the residence. This could lead to a poor combustion. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is strongly recommended. However, if the stove is installed in an open room, in a house that is more or less air-tight, combustion air will normally be easily replaced. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is not required. It must, however, be noted that a fresh air intake, even if it is not mandatory, will always provide the advantage of better balancing the house with regards to combustion air.
A fresh air intake is mandatory when installed in a mobile home for these pellet stoves.
1 - 35 and 35 insert series
2 - 45 series
3 - 50 series
4 - 65 series
A fresh air intake is mandatory in all installations for these pellet stoves.
1 - 65 series
Does the pellet quality have an impact on the appliance performance?
Can I vent my pellet appliance using my existing prefabricated chimney?
Can I use a GFCI receptacle on my pellet appliance?
This is not recommended. The GFCI will sense the difference in the amount of electricity flowing in and out of the circuit, even in amounts of current as small as 4 or 5 milliamperes. The GFCI reacts quickly (less than one tenth of a second) to trip or shut off the circuit.
A properly grounded 3 prong outlet provides adequate protection for both people and the appliance should a short circuit occur.